History and Design of Soldier’s Uniform

Table Of Contents

• 1. Introduction
• 2. The Soldier’s Uniform at the Beginning of the Empire
• 3. The European Influence on the Uniform of the Yogyakarta Palace Soldiers
• 4. Meaning of Color in the Uniform of the Palace Soldier
• 5. Meaning of Motifs on the Uniform of the Palace Soldiers
• 6. Knowing the Palace Soldier Bregada based on Uniform

Source: kratonjogja.id - Soldier Uniform Keraton Yogyakarta

1. Introduction

In addition to the culture that is still preserved, the Yogyakarta Palace also maintains its regional governance in their own way. That reason is also why Yogyakarta is called DIY (Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta) which means regions that have the right and have special regulations that are different from general regional regulations in Indonesia, the reasons why Yogyakarta get this special privilege will be discussed in another posts.

Here the author will provide a little information about the uniform of the Yogyakarta Palace soldiers from the design, color and philosophy of each palace warrior outfit. This paper is translated from the original text of the Yogyakarta Palace, entitled "Pakaian Keprajuritan Kasultanan Yogyakarta". 

Soldier’s uniform has been known in the history of the Yogyakarta Sultanate since Prince Mangkubumi was still fighting against the VOC (Dutch Company) government, this soldier outfit then changed from time to time to what we know today. Prince Mangkubumi's war attire in the form of a uniform, pants and bebed (cloth covering the lower body and legs), sikepan shirt (outer garment worn when carrying weapons), udheng or headband, a keris tucked in a belt, and a keris again hanging on the belt.

2. The Soldier’s Uniform at the Beginning of the Empire

VOC governor, Nicolaas Hartingh once described the clothes that Prince Mangkubumi wore during their private meeting in Pedagangan, Grobogan, when they were negotiating Prince Mangkubumi's demands on Mataram land. Prince Mangkubumi wore white clothes and cloth, wore two keris, clerical headgear wrapped with a fine linen headband stitched with gold thread. Prince Mangkubumi's companions also wore similar clothes. 

The description of the clothes that Prince Mangkubumi wore in battle shows that the soldier uniform at the beginning of the Yogyakarta Sultanate were influenced by Islamic culture. However, looking at some of the paintings about Javanese soldiers in the early days of the Yogyakarta Sultanate, it cannot be said that an Islamic style is present in every soldier's uniform.

Bugis Soldier with predominantly black

3. The European Influence on the Uniform of the Yogyakarta Palace Soldiers

During the time of Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwana IV (1816-1823), European designs began to be worn on the uniform of court soldiers. This coincided with the acceptance of European influences on several matters, including the awarding of the Major General Tituler to the ruling Sultan. 

After the defeat of Pangeran Diponegoro in the Java War (1825-1830), the Dutch East Indies government cut the military capacity of the Yogyakarta Sultanate so that the palace soldiers only functioned as a unit of palace guard and palace ceremonies. It was from this period that the uniform of the palace soldiers developed into what is known today. Today we see European elements wisely tucked in in the form of socks, shoes and hats.

4. Meaning of Color in the Uniform of the Palace Soldier

The design of the uniform of the palace soldiers was not just a mere pursuit of beauty. From color to fabric motifs have their own philosophical content. In the symbolic world of Java, there are terms Mancapat and Mancawarna. Everything in the world is divided into four parts which are spread out according to the cardinal directions, and one more part in the middle as the center. Likewise with the four kinds of human passions, namely Aluamah, Amarah, Supiyah, and Mutmainah. These four passions are then manifested in four different colors, namely black, red, yellow, and white.

1. The black color lies in the north

2. The red color is in the south

3. White in the east. 

4. The yellow color takes place in the west

5. Being at the center is a combination of these various colors

Each of these colors has associations with various things. Such as properties, objects, and Titah Alus (soft command).  

In the uniform of the palace soldiers, these colors also have their respective meanings and associations.

Black is used predominantly on; 

1. The clothes, pants and hats of the Bugis soldiers 

2. The clothes of the Prawiratama soldiers

3. The clothes of some of the Nyutra Ireng soldiers

4. The sharp hats of the Dhaeng soldiers. 

Black is the color of the earth. In Javanese society, this color can be interpreted as immortality and strength.

The color of Wulung, which is purplish black, was used by almost all soldiers. For example; for Dhaeng soldier’s blangkon or for dodot combined with white. 

The color of Wulung is close to black,  so it means the same.

Blue is used in a limited way. For example; the socks of the Jagakarya soldier, the lonthong (belt) of the Dhaeng soldier (Jajar Sarageni, Jajar Sarahastra, and soldier Dhaeng ungel-ungelan). 

The meaning of color blue which is used,  has the connotation of calm and pritect

The black color in Mancapat is associated with the north, iron, the Dhandang bird (a kind of black crane), the sea of indigo (indigo blue), the market-day of Wage, and Lord Vishnu. 

This color is the embodiment of Aluamah lust, which is as basic a desire as the desire to eat and drink.

Wibaraja Soldier with predominantly red

Red is used on some troops. The most dominant soldier wearing red is the Wirabraja soldier, who uses this color on centhung hats, sikepan shirts, pants, srempang, and endhong. Another soldier who also uses red is Dhaeng soldier. The red color is applied to the decoration on the front of the chest, the hem of the sleeves, and the trim on the sides of the pants.

1. Nyutra Abang soldier  wore red on his sleeveless shirt and pants. 

2. Prawiratama soldiers used them as pants. 

3. Patangpuluh soldiers used red for the upholstery as well as for the shirt and pants. 

The red color was also used in the cindhe cloth worn by various soldiers. Jingga or orange colors were used for the garments of Jaguar soldiers. This color is rarely used and is often incorporated into red.

Red is often connoted with courage. In Mancapat, red is associated with fire, southward, Swasa metal (a mixture of gold and copper), Wulung birds, sea of blood, Pahing market-day, and Lord Brahma. This color is a manifestation of amarah, where humans have the desire to aspire to a prosperous life, including the desire to have self-respect.

The yellow color is not used predominantly in court soldiers, this color is only used as decoration. 

The yellow color means nobility, divinity, and peace.

Gold is considered to be close to yellow. For example; the yellow gold color is used by Wirabraja soldiers for lining on Panji's centhung hat and lining on Panji's sikepan shirt. The gold color is used, among other things, to distinguish between the Lurah and the Jajar soldiers. 

The color gold is a symbol of glory and majesty.

The yellow color in Mancapat associated with air, west direction, gold metal, Podhang birds, sea of honey, Pon market-days, and Lord Bayu. This color is a manifestation of Supiyah lust, where humans aspire to enjoy beauty (painting, scenery, beauty, etc.).

The white color is used by almost all soldiers in various forms, especially for secondary parts such as double clothes, or Sayak. The troops that use white predominantly are soldiers Dhaeng and Surakarsa. Both of these troops used white for their shirts and trousers. Others who use white for trousers are soldier Ketanggung, Prawiratama, and Patangpuluh.

The white color is close to the meaning of cleanliness and purity. In Mancapat, white is associated with the east, silver, egrets, water, coconut milk, Legi market-day, and Lord Komajaya. This color is a manifestation of Mutmainah lust, where humans have a clean soul and can distinguish good things from bad things.

5. Meaning of Motifs on the Uniform of the Palace Soldiers

Apart from being distinguished by color, the fabrics used for the material and equipment of soldiers' clothing also have motifs. Existing motifs include batik, striated, and cindhe. 

Fabrics with batik motifs are used by the Manggala, Wedana Ageng, Pandhega, and Bugis Panewu and another soldier wearing a batik cloth was Surakarsa. 

Batik cloth is used symbolically to show hierarchy, the batik cloth with its various decorations has more meaning and is relatively more expensive has more meaning than just plain cloth.

Fabrics with Lurik motifs are used as outer garments for Jagakarya, Ketanggung, Mantrijero, Patangpuluh, and Langenastra soldiers, both for the Head of Parentah Village and for Jajar soldiers. Striated cloth is not an expensive cloth like batik, the philosophy is not as strong as the batik cloth. This fabric tends to be used for everyday wear such as Surjan and Peranakan. 

Therefore, the meaning of this cloth tends to simplicity, loyalty and honesty.

The Lurik motif that is used as the uniform of the palace soldiers is called Lurik Ginggang which means tenuous because between the rows of the same color are filled with another color. 

But a deeper meaning is the soldier's loyalty to his king, and the relationship between soldiers should not be separated.

The color of the Lurik that approached gray symbolized the love and blessing of the king for the soldiers like ashes that could not be burned by fire.

However, there were different striated motifs among the soldiers. In this case, different motives can be considered as meaningful identities.

Fabrics with a Cindhe motif are used for pennant trousers, Lonthong (for example for Manggala, soldier Ketanggung, Patangpuluh soldier, and soldier Mantrijero), and coals (for example for Manggala, Patangpuluh soldier, and Mantrijero soldier). 

Cindhe is a cloth motif influenced from India. The use of this motif can have a technical meaning as an accent of plain fabrics and Batik. 

Usually based on red, the use of colors tended to emphasize the courage carried by soldiers.

Surakarta Soldier with predominantly white

6. Knowing the Palace Soldier Bregada based on Uniform

By observing the colors and patterns of clothing, court soldiers can be distinguished easily.

1. Wirabraja soldiers are easily recognized by their predominantly red clothes. Including his hat which has a sharp tip so it is often referred to as the Lombok Abang soldier.

2. Nyutra soldier  was divided in two; The Nyutra soldier who was wearing red and who was wearing black, the equation is that the two soldiers wore yellow sleeves. In the past, the yellow color was presented with scrubs that were directly applied to the skin of soldiers' arms and legs.

3. There are two soldiers who can be identified by their predominantly white clothes, Surakarsa soldier and Dhaeng soldier . 

The difference is that the Dhaeng soldier has a red ornament on the chest. 

4. The soldiers whose uniform were predominantly black were Bugis soldiers and Prawiratama soldiers, the difference is that the Bugis Soldier uses a tall cylindrical hat.

There are four soldiers wearing uniform with striated patterns; Ketanggung soldiers, Patangpuluh soldiers, Mantrijero soldiers, and Jagakarya soldiers. The difference is easy to see from pants and socks. 

1. Ketanggung soldier wearing black pants. 

2. Patangpuluh soldiers wore red pants. 

3. The Mantrijero and Jagakarya soldiers both wore Lurik patterned trousers.

4. But The Mantrijero soldiers wore white socks while Jagakarya Soldier wore black/dark blue socks.

The uniform of the court soldiers had indeed lost their practical function in warfare, this is in accordance with the function of palace soldiers who were previously a military unit turned into cultural guardians. 

However, the symbols represented by the clothes and attributes worn by court soldiers did not necessarily fade away. It is hoped that the character of the knights possessed by the palace soldiers will be held firmly by the soldiers and can be transmitted to the wider community.

Jagakarya Soldier with his Lurik cloth